Making candles

[minuet]

I've been looking at my empty cans from soup, veggies, tuna fish, etc., sitting in my recycle bin wondering if it's possible to recycle them into candles. I have some parawax on hand, and am wondering if I can make a wick and just pour melted parawax into the cans. Would that work?

Debi

[Guest DeborahC]

Every year I make candles for the year, and I just finished. Rather than repost the photos, you can go to this link to see my photos and instructions:

Board Message

Don't be afraid to join that forum.

It is a forum on survival skills and has many LDS members.

Here is one hour's work:

[minuet]

DeborahC, what forum were you talking about joining? Is there a way to get the directions for the candles you made - I love the photo!

Debi

[Guest DeborahC]

click on the blue link that says "Board Message" in my first post.

Thanks! I love these candles.

They're dipped from beeswax, but you can use paraffin also.

If you can't get to the link/instructions, then I can post them here.

[minuet]

DeborahC, When i click on the blue link I keep getting a warning message that says I don't have permission to use that feature. Would it be possible for you to post the instructions on this forum? Thanks very, very much!!!!!

[Guest DeborahC]

Items you will need to gather include:

 Beeswax. This can usually be purchased directly from a beekeeper. Look in the yellow pages -- even if you are in the city. We are in the habit of purchasing 25 pound blocks of wax. This usually makes somewhere between 200 - 250 dipped tapers. We usually have wax left over to pour votives.

 Wicking. The correct size wick is very important. If your wick is too large the candles will burn too FAST! If the wick is too small a pool of molten wax will form in the center of the candle and snuff the flame. Again, check the yellow pages for Candle Supplies or Craft Supplies and discuss your needs with someone experienced. Your tapers will probably be around 3/4” at the base so ask for an appropriately-sized wick. Purchase wicking by the roll instead of by the small package. You’ll get a much better price and you can always use leftovers next year.

Here is a photo of rolls of wicking. I buy these from GenWax. You will need flat taper wicking.

 Votive molds. This year we gave up trying to use purchased molds. Too much trouble and too slow! Instead, we purchased a package of plastic dixie cups. They were the small ones like you use in the bathroom dispensers. The cups are reusable so you can save them for next year.

 Toothpicks - to hold up the wicking on votive molds. Lay the toothpick with attached wicking across the top of the mold.

 A DEEP pot for melting the wax and dipping. You will need something at least 10 inches high and 8-10 inches in diameter. I use a 50 cup coffee maker like they use for parties. I often find these at yard sales for under $5. These are excellent because not only do they melt the wax slowly so it doesn't get too hot, they KEEP the wax melted and ready to use. You can also just unplug it, let the wax harden, put the lid on, and your wax is stored for next year.

Here is a photo of what I'm talking about with last year's wax stored in it, ready to remelt:

 Another pot for melting extra wax to fill the dipping pot as the wax level lowers. An old camp coffee pot works great! The spout makes pouring the hot wax easier.

 DEEP water containers. We use Tupperware beverage servers.

 A rack to hang the finished candles on. I use my kitchen pot rack. Another coven uses one of those wooden indoor clothes drying racks.

 Lots of newspaper.

 Masking tape.

 Some good music!

To Make Your Own Candles

FIRST, start the music!

NEXT, spend some time spreading newspaper EVERYWHERE. Spread it all over the floor and tape it down! Spread it all over the counters and tape it down.

BREAK the wax. Put it in a cardboard box and break it into manageable size with hammer and chisel.

MELT the wax on LOW HEAT. This is worth waiting for. If you melt beeswax too fast it will turn dark brown. Take your time and melt it on a lower heat. Your candles will be nicer.

It’s best to use a pot that you don’t have to clean up every year. I purchased two old 30-cup coffee percolators at a yard sale for $5.00. I put the wax in those and plug them in. The wax sputters for the first 5 minutes then settles into a nice slow melt. It takes about 6 hours for the wax to completely melt and fill the pots so if you use these, you may want to plug them in the night before. However, they keep the wax at a perfect temperature for dipping! They have a spigot for filling molds. And you can let the unused wax harden in them for storage until next year’s candlemaking.

For Dipped Candles

MEASURE AND CUT WICK while you wait. You can cut up to 16” lengths and dip candles two or four at a time, two on each wick (see photos).

FILL THE WATER CONTAINERS with cold water and place them very near the dipping pot.

When all the wax in the pot is melted, dip your wick into the wax and then into the cold water. All the dipping should be one steady smooth movement. Do not HOLD the wick in the wax or you'll just melt your last layer off. Go IN and OUT in one smooth movement. (Don’t dip the part you are holding.) The wick will be all curled up and ugly. Straighten it out and roll it on the counter like you used to roll clay snakes when you were a kid. You may have to dip the wick 2-3 times before it is manageable.

Here is what this looks like when you first dip the wicks:

Once the wick is straight and coated with wax you can BEGIN DIPPING THE CANDLE. Here is the best procedure.

DIP SMOOTHLY into the melted wax. If you tarry, you’ll just melt off the layers instead of building them up. Dip straight down and straight up in one smooth motion.

DIP INTO THE COLD WATER until you see the wax lighten (this means it is hardening). Occasionally clean off any bits of wax floating on top of the water so they do not attach to your candle. Put them in a scrap bowl to melt later.

DIP QUICKLY into the melted wax again. If your candle begins to look crooked, you can roll it on the counter to straighten it out while it is still fairly thin.

Keep alternating from wax to water to wax until the candle is about 3/4” thick AT THE BASE. Remember, if you make it too fat it won’t burn well.

Here is what they look like in process:

And here is how they look when you're done! Don't make them too thick or they won't burn well and you'll just waste wax. Also, notice the color change between the soft wax and the cool wax in the water:

Using a sharp knife, cut off the bottom. Toss this piece into a scrap bowl to melt later. DO NOT PUT THIS WAX BACK INTO YOUR DIPPING POT because it will cling to your candles and you'll get ugly lumps and bumps.

Now just hang up your beautiful candles to dry. You can use a clothesline or a noodle rack. Anyplace you can safely hang the candles to harden overnight will work.

You saw the candles hanging at the beginning of this thread. I usually let mine hang overnight to be sure they're good and hard.

You can use this method with beeswax (which I LOVE) or with paraffin. It will work for both. You can purchase big blocks of paraffin from Genwax quite reasonably.

You can look in the phone book for a beekeeper and he can tell you where to get beeswax. I often use "dirty" beeswax because it is cheaper and has not been strained. It doesn't matter because all of the "stuff" sinks to the bottom and the candles are fine.

For Molded/Votive Candles

Using a good olive oil and your finger, oil each dixie cup LIGHTLY.

Remember, you will need a larger wick for molded or votive candles than you do for tapers.

Poke a TINY hole in the bottom of each cup and thread a piece of wick up through the bottom. Make it long enough to stick to a toothpick with a dab of melted wax. The toothpick lays across the top of the dixie cup to keep the wick upright. CUT the wick off even with the bottom of the cup. Be certain not to use the same wick you use for your taper candles. Votive wicking must be larger.

If the hole is not tiny enough, melted wax will escape from the bottom of the cup, so you may want to put a small piece of masking tape on the bottom. But usually the wick holds the wax in.

When you get several molds ready, pour melted wax into each one and allow them to set up completely before attempting to unmold them. Once they are cold, a sharp rap upside-down should loosen and free the candle from the cup.

You have candles!

How long will beeswax candles burn? Each year, we test to see how long our candles burn. Generally, the 8” dipped tapers burn for 6-7 HOURS. The dixie cup votives burn for 5-6 hours. On the occasions we have used molds for our tapers, they burn a bit longer than the dipped candles but not long enough to make the extra effort worth it! Molded tapers are a LOT of work, unless you are making small numbers or have several molds.

A tip: if you place your finished candles in the freezer for several hours they should not drip when they burn.

These candles make lovely gifts tied in pairs with ribbon and a bit of dried flowers. They smell so nice when they burn and they impart a peaceful energy as they burn.

If you have any specific questions, please ask. I love making candles and there's nothing more satisfying than knowing you can do it. You can also use tallow in a pinch.

[MorningStar]

That was awesome!

[Alaskagain]

Thanks for those great pictures and instructions, DeborahC!

Beeswax should be melted in the top of a double-boiler, or in a can or smaller pan placed in a larger pan of water and heated, it doesn't have to actually come to a boil, as beeswax melts at about 140-145 degrees. Otherwise, the beeswax may scorch or even catch on fire if heated up too high or too rapidly. (The can or pan should not touch the bottom of the water pan, there should be enough water in it to float.)

I don't work with such big batches, but the coffee percolator idea is a really good one!

To keep a votive (paper-cup) mold from leaking, pour a teeny amount of the melted wax in it to cover the hole, or dip the bottom of the mold into melted wax for a light coating, and let it cool to solidify before filling the mold.

I don't like to use paraffin, as it is derived from petroleum, but I have used it in the past and probably will again if needed. Beeswax is more expensive though, about $1 an ounce right now. But I do save my bacon grease and clarify it for tallow, which can be used alone or mixed with beeswax.

If you are using a metal can for a candle mold, you can anchor the bottom of the wick with a magnet, just pull the magnet off the bottom of the candle once it has cooled.

You can also use the tuna cans for molds for personal care products like soap or lotion bars.

And of course, cans can be recycled into pencil cups, hardware or hobby-item sorters, paper-clip containers, etc. by smoothing sharp edges and painting, covering with construction paper creations by your children, or plastic contact paper, or simply attaching labels.

Edited December 21, 2008 by Alaskagain
clarity

[Guest DeborahC]

I don't like paraffin either.

You're right about using a double boiler.

It's the safest way to heat it, but I don't use one.

I just heat it on low heat.

You have to be more careful with paraffin, which will burst into flame quite quickly if you get it too hot!

You can purchase beeswax in Portland, Oregon for under $6 per POUND.

I often find it for under $4.

You just have to seek out a beekeeper rather than purchasing it retail.

Here is a link for $5 per pound "dirty" wax.

I just melt this and the gunk goes to the bottom, not interfering with the candles:

Link: Beeswax

You can get refined beeswax retail from Genwax for $7.50 per pound. Here is a link:

Refined 100% Beeswax For Candlemaking (1 lb. block) - Item # GWBWX011200R. Buy low price Refined 100% Beeswax For Candlemaking (1 lb. block) online at Generalwax.com

Edited December 21, 2008 by DeborahC

[pam]

That's awesome. I wish I had a talent like that.